Manufacture of slip lasted shoes



'May 1, 1951 K. A. STRITTER MANUFACTURE OF SLIP LASTED SHOES Filed Nov.27, 1946 [n venfor Karl A. Szm'zzer Patented May 1, 1951 V MANUFACTUREOF SLIP LASTED SHOES Karl A. Stritter, Nahant, Mass., assignor to UnitedShoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J a corporation of New JerseyApplication November 27. 1946, Serial No. 712,602 I l f This inventionrelates to the manufacture of shoes and is herein illustrated in itsapplication to the manufacture of stitchdown shoes by methods ofshoemaking which do not require the use of a last or other form forshaping the upper for attachment to an insole.

' It is an object of the present invention toadapt stitchdown shoes toslip lasting methods of shoemaking, so called.

In one aspect thereof the invention consists in a method of folding themargin of an upper on a defined fold line, herein illustrated as a rowof stitches, attaching the folded margin of the upper to an extendedsock lining by fastenings extending through the two thicknesses of thetwo-sole or three-sole construction. In the case of the three-soleconstruction the outturned margin of the upper may be attached to themidsole only in which case the outsole is cement attached to themidsole. In the manufacture of the threesole construction the inventioncontemplates assembling the sock lining and midsole before positioningthe upper on the sock lining and securing the folded margin of the upperto the sock lining by fastenings extending through the two thicknessesof the upper adiacent to the fold line and through both the sock liningand the midsole.

Invention is also to be recognized in the illustrated shoe constructioncomprising an upper the bottom margin of which is turned outwardly theninwardly over said outturned margin then outwardly again a sock liningthe edge of which coincides with the extremity of the first-mentionedoutturned portion, fastenings extending heightwise of the upper throughthe two lower layers of its marginal portion and through the margin ofthe sock linin and a sole which may be a midsole or an outsole fastenedto the marginal portion of the upper extending outwardly beyond the edgeof the sock lining. Preferably and as herein illustrated, the marginalportion of the upper to which the sole is attached lies in a planecommon to the sock lining. In vertical section the marginal portion ofthe upper lies adiacent to and conceals the outer fold in the margin ofthe upper and the edge of the sock lining.

These and other features and aspects of the 5 Claims. (01. 36--16)invention will now be described with reference to the accompanyingdrawings and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a plan view illustrating the toe portion of an upper embodyingfeatures of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a cross sectional view showing a portion of an upper stitchedto a portion of a sock lining;

Figs. 3 and 4 are cross sectional views illustrating alternativeconstructions embodying the upper and sock lining illustrated in Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional view showing a modification of theconstruction illustrated in Fig. 2, the upper being stitched inside outto the sock lining; and

Fig. 6 is a cross sectional view showing the assembly illustrated inFig. 5 turned right side out and completed by the attachment thereto ofa mock welt and an outsole.

The drawings illustrate three alternative c0n-' and reversed beforeinserting the last.

In Fig. 1 there is illustrated a prefitted upper Ill-having a line ofstitches l2 uniformly spaced from the edge of the upper and arranged toes-:

tablish a fold line. Referring to Fig. 2 the upper is folded upon saidline of stitches so as to bring theouter surface of the margin it intocontact' with the outer surface of the body portion of the upper. Theupper is then mounted on an insole or a sock lining- H; with its foldededge coinciding with the edge of the sock lining, and the upper and socklining so assembled are attached together by fastenings or' stitches l1extending heightwise of the upper through the two thicknesses of theupper adjacent to the stitches I2 and through the margin of the socklining. As illustrated in Fig. 3, the sock lining l6 has a marginalportion extending beyond the last bottom line upon which portion theoutturned margin of the upper is mounted. After attaching the upper tothe sock lining a last I8 is forced into the shoe so made thereby tostretch and shape the upper and to facilitate the subsequent shoemakingoperations. The free marginal portion M of the upper is then turnedoutwardly and drawn downwardly into adjacent relation to the folded edgeportion of the upper and the edge of the sock lining l6, and then turnedoutwardly, thus providing a sole attaching flange lying in the sameplane as the sock lining. The shoe is completed by the attachment of amock welt 20 and an outsole 22 to the outturned margin [4 of the upperrby stitches'24.

In the manufacture of the shoe illustrated in Fig. 4 an upper which hasits bottom margin folded, as shown in Fig. 2, is attached to an as'--sembly comprising a sock lining-:26 anda-m-idsole, 28 by fastenings orstitches 30.

margin of the midsole 28 and the shoe is completed by the cementattachment ofan-outsole 36 to the bottom of the midsole.

As shown in Fig. 5, an upper 38 having its-bot tom margin 40 foldedover, as shown in Fig. 2, is turned. inside out :andiattached inthisrposition: t'o the' margin ofa sock lining 3'52" of slightly'lessthan last bottom area. The assembly'so constructed is reversed or turnedright 'side out and a lastlM I (Fig. '6) is inserted intothe-shoesomade. The bottom margin 4!] of the upper is thenturnedoutwardly and a mock welt 46 an'dan out= so1e148: are: attachedto saidoutturned margin by stitches 50: It'will bese'en that after'theinsertion of the last 44 the stitches 52 attaching taching saidoutturnedmarginof' the' upper to;

thema'rgin-of a-sole;

zzl'Ihat method'of makingshoes which comprises establishing .a fold linein'tl'ie bottom marginaliportion of an upper, folding the upper upon 7said line so asto bring outer surfaces of the upper into con'tactwitheach other, mounting a sock lining; upon a sole; attachingthe folded:margin. of

the; upper to. the'assembled sockolini-ng and sole:- by, fasteningsextending throughtheitwo thick-.- 5

nesses' of: the upper'adjacent' to thefoldiline; through the marginalportion 7 of the sock-1 lining A mock welt 32' is then attached bystitches= 34 to the outturnedmargin of the upper and theoutwardlyextending and through the sole, inserting a last into the shoe so made,turning the free margin of the upper outwardly, attaching said Outturnedmargin and a welt to the margin of the sole, and cement attaching anoutsole to said sole.

3. A stitchdown shoe comprising an upper the bottom margin of which isturned outwardly theniinwardly then outwardly, alrsock lining the edgeofwhichcoincides with the outermost fold in the upper, fasteningsextending heightwise of the upper through the two lower thicknesses ofthe-folded portion of the upper and through the margin of the socklining, and a sole member fastened to'the marginflof the upper extendingoutward1y beyondthe edge of the sock lining.

4'.'-Astitchdown shoe comprising an upper the bottom.margin of whichextends outwardly then inwardly then outwardly again forming threelayersin vertically superimposed relation, a sock lining the margin ofwhich is extended so that its edge-coincides with the edge of the outerfold of the upper, fastenings extending through-the.

two lowermost thicknesses of the folded portion of the upper and throughthe margin of said sock lining, the bottom margin of the upper having avertical section adjacent'to' the outer fold of the upper and: the edgeof-the sock'lininganda horizontal sectionexten'ding outwardly in a planecommon to the sock lining, and a' sole member attached to-saidhorizontalportion of the bot tom margin of theupper.

5. A- stitchdown shoe havingan v-upperrthe bot tom margin of whichextends outwardly, then in wardly, then outwardly,- and-a socklining.the edge of which coincides with the edge of the-outer fold of said;margin, said-stitchdown shoe being characterized by an extension of saidmargin exe tending heightwise of the upper adjacent to the.- outerfoldof :said margin and the edge of the sock;

liningand'extending outwardlyalong the surface ofra. sole, anda weltthe-inner edge face-of which is arrangedin contiguous relation to thatportionofsaid. margin extending heightwise of the shoe and the bottomface of which is arranged incontiguousrelation-to the outturnedextremity of saidmargin.

KARL A. STRITTER.

REFERENCES CITED,

The following references are of record. in the file-of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number; Name. Date.

1,586,631 Luppinoj June 1,. 1926. 2,339,726 Stritter Jan. 18,.1944

